Will freshwater fish save Kenyans from hunger?
It's a matter of time and habit, but it seems that Nile tilapia, which has made its way south of the equator, may take over from octopus, cuttlefish and grouper lurking behind the coral reef. The Kenyan coast, always known for its shellfish, octopus and squid, as well as deep-sea fish, is increasingly sending its catch to the freezers of Shanghai, crammed into the holds of Asian fleets or the nets of large companies that, here on the coast, present themselves as “paying guests”, but always too little and too few.

Local fishermen have no choice but to seek their livelihood on shore: in addition to the waste of marine fish products, which account for 30% of the total, mainly due to the impossibility of preservation, the costs of fishing are often unsustainable in order to be competitive, between motor boats, quality nets and maintenance. The situation is different for aquaculture, which is becoming increasingly popular on the Kenyan coast and has recently been supported by Italian cooperation as part of the Blue Economy projects backed by the Mattei Plan for Africa.

Yes, the revolution – a big word, but when it comes to full stomachs, that's what it is – could come from fresh water. Improvised pools in the red earth of Kwale, transformed into ponds full of fry: Nile tilapia and catfish, which may not have the gastronomic nobility of lobster, but at least guarantee dinner and breakfast. In addition, tilapia's high protein content, B vitamins, phosphorus, potassium and selenium can help, although its nutritional value is influenced by diet. Farming methods and the type of feed can affect the quality of the fish and the environment.
There are many farmers in Kwale County with more calluses than illusions, who now look at their ponds as one would look at a savings account. “This project gives us hope,” many say, and for once it does not seem like the usual agreed-upon interview phrase.
The residents of Msambweni, Matuga, Lunga Lunga and Kinango have received not only fry, but also fibreglass boats, cold storage rooms and safety equipment. These gifts did not fall from the sky, but came from the World Bank, disguised as a fairy godmother under the acronym KEMFSED. These gifts are in addition to the initiatives of the European Union, of which Italy is one of the main players.
In an interview with Radio Capital, one of the beneficiaries of the project explains: ‘Aquaculture is the surest way to food self-sufficiency.’ Translated: fewer political promises, more catfish.
County Governor Fatuma Achani, who lives on promises, puts her institutional stamp on it: “Fish farming is not just an alternative, it is a pillar”. And when a politician talks about pillars, you usually expect an inauguration complete with scissors and ribbons. Pink bows on sweet tilapia and blue bows on that crafty catfish.
Meanwhile, 60 ponds and 70,000 fry are already there, darting about. Perhaps they will not be enough to feed the country, but in the meantime, they are saving the dignity of a few families. And sometimes, in Africa as elsewhere, dignity is worth more than bread. Or octopus.